We are now in Puebloan country. Leaving Durango, we snake up the highway to the top of Mesa Verde. From the road leading up to it, this place emphatically punches the clear blue sky. As I drive up, I wonder how there would be enough water to sustain a civilization. Because of the pandemic, we are unable to walk through the dwellings, but the views from the overlooks are awe-inspiring.
From here, we head to the Aztec Ruins. The grounds, along with the many rooms, seem embracing, bringing us into the past with a feeling of connectedness. The reconstructed Great Kiva echoes sacred ceremonies that transcend time.
Bisti Wilderness
We shoot south, and off the side of the highway, we follow Mark and Sarah, pulling into the parking lot of the Bisti Wilderness. This place has been on my bucket list, and having read about the wildness of this place, of the difficult route-finding, of people getting lost, I wasn’t going to attempt this without Mark being there. His search-and-rescue experience would be helpful. We set up camp just off to the side of the parking lot. Then, Mark leads us through the featureless terrain to fantastical hoodoos. We climb up and over them, weaving through the stands of sentinels and creatures. The sun dips below the clear horizon and paints the sky with wisps of pink and orange. This place would become one of our kids’ favorite places, where they remember the free range where they roamed and the boulders which they conquered. We head back to camp as the stars begin to emerge.
Chaco Canyon
The crisscrossing roads through the flat landscape makes us feel lost, and the rumble of gravel makes us dizzy. At last, we arrive at Chaco Canyon; we’re not lost. Stepping into the ruins, it’s not hard to imagine the once-advanced culture flourishing in this place. Because of time constraints, we choose to explore Pueblo Bonito. Climbing up to the precipice, we marvel at the structure’s outline, the design, rooms, and architectural details. And, I find myself constantly fearful of the kids falling into one of the kivas. We emerge safely and enjoy a picnic lunch by Casa Rinconada.
Albuquerque
Mark had suggested that we stay at Los Poblanos, and I’m glad we booked this place. We love the manicured lavender fields and tended gardens. The farm-to-table creations are amazing. The Biggest Little Farm is Daphney’s favorite documentary, and staying at this place brings back those warm feelings of being in a working farm, smelling the earth, feeling the connectedness to the rhythms of the seasons.
Taos
We next journey to Taos. There is so much history to this place. My college sociology professor, Monte Andres, recommend me Cather’s book, Death Comes for the Archbishop. Seeing Taos in person breathes life into the book. We take a day trip to Bandelier; the cliff dwellings are my favorite ruins, and I can see how this mystical place set in a peaceful valley can be so captivating to those who lived there.
In Taos, we stay at El Monte Sagrado, another recommendation from Mark. The kids love the setting, mesmerized by the falling leaves and the fish swimming in the pond. We love our room decorated with the Bali theme, and we wish our stay here was longer.
The Enchanted Circle drive ends up less scenic than what we were hoping for. We did enjoy lunch amidst some beautiful fall color.
Back in Taos, we pull in to La Luna Mystica, a hotel consisting of renovated RVs scattered outside of town. We have never stayed in an RV before, so this is to be our RV experience. We love our Airstream and its porch with a firepit. The kids enjoy jumping around the dining area. It’s windy tonight. We light a fire for ambience but quickly head inside before being blown away.
We wake up to a calm morning. Leaving town, we visit the bridge over the Rio Grande. Then, we stop by the closed San Francisco of Asis Church and travel the high road to Chimayo. In the church, the side chapel with all the crutches inspires faith, but the Atocha child off to the side seems creepy. I wonder if the dirt is refilled each day by a caretaker, or if it self-replenishes.
Soon, we’ll be leaving this land of “bright yellow waves of high sand dunes,” where the landscape is punctuated by “a few lines of dark juniper that crew out of weather cracks,” where wild pumpkins look “less like a plant than like a great colony of gray-green lizards, moving and suddenly arrested by fear.” Soon, we’ll be back in Colorado.
Spruce Tree House at Mesa VerdeYan and Daphney on the bench by the Spruce Tree House overlookFamily picture on the bench by the Spruce Tree House overlookDaphney and Jayden having picnic lunch at the Cliff Palace overlook areaCliff Palace in Mesa VerdePicnic lunch at the Cliff Palace overlook area, Daphney so happy with bread and cheeseInside the Great Kiva at Aztec Ruins National MonumentHiking around Aztec Ruins National MonumentDoorway fit for Jayden and DaphneyHiking around Aztec Ruins National MonumentStanding above a kiva at Aztec Ruins National MonumentHiking around Aztec Ruins National MonumentHiking around Aztec Ruins National MonumentSetting up camp at the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessHiking in to the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessDaphney is so happy to be hiking in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessDaphney is so happy to be hiking in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessJayden and Daphney standing on mushroom formations in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessDaphney on a small ledge in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessMark among the hoodoosMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessFamily and Sarah among the hoodoos with the setting sunMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessMushroom hoodoos with the rising moon in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness with colorful cloudsPicture with the Andersons at the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessFamily picture at the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessSilhouette of Mark and SarahCamping under a starry sky in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessSunrise at the Bisti/De-Na-Zin Wilderness, view from inside our tentCamping in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessJayden just finished sucking his thumb after a night of camping in the Bisti/De-Na-Zin WildernessAt the entrance to Chaco Culture National Historic ParkJayden and Daphney seated in the entrance window to ChacoFajada ButteDaphney and Jayden walking toward Pueblo BonitoDaphney and Jayden walking toward Pueblo BonitoPueblo Bonito ruinsFamily picture standing on top of Pueblo Bonito ruinsYan walking with JaydenDaphney in a Pueblo Bonito doorwayFamily picture among the Pueblo Bonito ruinsPicnic lunch at the Casa Rinconada Picnic AreaView from the Casa Rinconada Picnic Area, including the picnic pergolaLavender fields at Los PoblanosTractor and silos at Los PoblanosChili hanging at the Los Poblanos InnDaphney writing on the antique deskJayden in the garden at Los PoblanosYan and Daphney in the Los Poblanos gardenGeese flying overheadFamily picture at Los PoblanosChili hanging at the Los Poblanos InnDaphney on a pumpkin by a post with hanging chili at the Los Poblanos InnDaphney and Jayden in the swing at the Los Poblanos InnThe garden at sunriseYan having a lavender cocktailVegetable tamales and rice and fried eggBlue corn fish tacos and riceJayden walking in the courtyard at Los PoblanosDaphney and Jayden waiting to have breakfast at Los PoblanosThe garden and fields after sunriseEnjoying the green vegetable juiceEnjoying the green vegetable juiceChilaquiles with blue corn tortillasDaphney with blue corn pancakesAvocado toastOutside San Miguel Chapel in Santa FeLoretto Chapel staircaseHaving lunch at the Plaza CafeGreen Chile Impossible BurgerPeeking into one of the ruins at Bandelier National MonumentDaphney climbing up the stairs at Bandelier National MonumentLooking down at Daphney from a cave dwellingLooking out from a cave dwellingLooking down at Yan and Jayden from a cliff dwellingDaphney running among the ruins at Bandelier National MonumentBandelier National Monument ruinsFamily picture outside of our suite at El Monte SagradoJayden and Daphney looking at the fish in the pond at El Monte SagradoEl Monte Sagrado courtyard waterfall and pondEl Monte Sagrado courtyard pond at nightYan and Jayden looking at fish in the pondJayden and Daphney looking at the fish in the pond at El Monte Sagrado, Jayden pointing to themDaphney and Jayden sitting on rocks in the El Monte Sagrado courtyardDaphney and Jayden standing on rocks in the El Monte Sagrado courtyardYan and the kids in the El Monte Sagrado courtyardPicnic lunch amidst fall foilage at Red River along the Enchanted Circle loop driveYan watching Daphney eating lunchJayden propped up on the picnic table wanting more foodJayden eating lunchJayden and Daphney having fun after lunch at Red RiverJayden after lunch at Red RiverFamily picture by our Airstream trailer at Hotel Luna MysticaFamily picture inside our Airstream trailer at Hotel Luna MysticaDanny and Yan inside our Airstream trailer at Hotel Luna MysticaTaos plazaOur Airstream trailer at Hotel Luna Mystica with the rising moonThe campfire outside our Airstream trailerDaphney and Jayden playing on the chairs outside our Airstream trailerThe campfire outside our Airstream trailerHotel Luna Mystical Airstream trailer just before sunriseHotel Luna Mystical Airstream trailer just before sunriseDaphney and Jayden reading while in the Airstream trailerRio Grande Gorge bridgeRio Grande GorgeSan Francisco de Asis ChurchSan Francisco de Asis carrying a crossLas Trampas churchFamily picture outside Santuario de ChimayoSantuario de Chimayó towersSantuario de Chimayó towers
Colossians 3:
Let the peace of Christ rule in your hearts, since as members of one body you were called to peace. And be thankful. Let the message of Christ dwell among you richly as you teach and admonish one another with all wisdom through psalms, hymns, and songs from the Spirit, singing to God with gratitude in your hearts. And whatever you do, whether in word or deed, do it all in the name of the Lord Jesus, giving thanks to God the Father through him.