Kearsarge Pass | Center Basin | Forester Pass | Shepherd Pass | Shepherd Creek
Part 2
The lake is still, like a mirror in the morning light. Around dawn, I poke around with my macro lens to find suitable subjects, looking for details that often go unnoticed. Then, we have a simple but satisfying breakfast: oatmeal with honey , scones with pour-over coffee. I had made the contraption to hold the filter paper, and grounds were pre-measured from home: 35 g of beans to 560 cc of water.
We set out under another bright sky. The wind starts to pick up as we hike around Bullfrog Lake. After heading down the Vidette Switchbacks, we reach the John Muir Trail along Bubbs Creek. There are a few overused campsites, and we try fishing from one of them. The hope is to catch some and grill them here, before we ascend above 10,000 feet where fires are prohibited. The one and only ranger we encounter on the trip greets us here and checks my permit. After lunch, we hike on.
Halfway between Vidette Meadow Junction and Center Basin Junction, we stumble upon an impressive waterfall. Pictures don’t capture its majesty, especially in the glare of the harsh noontime sun. To our delight, though, trout are dancing in the large pool below the waterfall. There are maybe two dozen fish darting around. Brad and I decide to cast, and in the fast-moving current, without the chance to examine the fly, the golden trout strike at the caddis again and again. This is Brad’s first forage into fly fishing, and he’s enjoying the game.
The trail up to Center Basin is non-distinct, but luckily, we met a pair of hikers who described how to find it: directly across from the campsite with a large bear box. The climb is difficult in places, and being unmaintained, we lose the trail in a few places only to wander back onto it. Cresting the ridge, an expansive basin greets us, Center Peak standing sentinel to the right, and the Crags palisading on the left. A lush meadow and shallow lakes spread out before us like a hidden paradise.
We push up into the next basin, reaching Golden Bear Lake. The solitude here is deafening, and I feel like the mountains and earth are all touching the sky. Brad and I scout out a nice campsite; I like it because it allows for open views of the sky for star photography. With map and compass, I orient myself, pinpointing where Polaris will make its appearance tonight —just over University Pass.
Following our usual routine, we set up camp, wash off the trail dust, and do laundry. Our shirts, shorts, and towels fluttering against the towering peaks evoke images of Tibetan prayer flags. Tonight’s dinner menu features spinach and cheese tortellini with pine nuts, Parmesan, and olive oil, finished with fresh basil. Fresh herbs are light and add so much to a backcountry meal. For dessert, Brad whips up tiramisu for a sweet treat to end the day.
As the sun is setting, alpenglow emerges and paints the peaks in rosy hues. I set up my wide-angle lens and frame the tent and where I figured the north star will be. After a few test shots, I turn in, setting my alarm for 21:17, when dark night begins.
The stars emerge and turn the sky into a brilliant tapestry. The moon is so bright it makes my test shots look like daytime photographs. I set the intervalometer and tuck back in; after an hour, I take my camera into the tent and drift off to sleep.
